blue-ribbon fishing destinations. To get there, turn off at Sigurd,
just north of Richfield, onto State Road 24, and head southeast, and
then turn onto State Road 25. Fish Lake is a true high mountain
lake, at an elevation of 8,800 feet. The scenic 2500-acre gem is surrounded by pines and aspens that blaze with color in the fall.
Averaging 70 feet deep, its clear cold waters are famous for 20-, 30-,
even 40-pound Mackinaw trout. I’ve been there many times, and
I’m always inspired by its beauty. Bring a jacket because it’s cool
even in the warmer months, particularly when the sun goes down.
While you’re there, you’ll want to visit Fish Lake Lodge. The lodge
was built in 1928-31 of huge spruce logs from nearby Pelican
canyon and is one of America’s largest and most impressive log
structures.
From Fish Lake, you can backtrack to Sigurd and continue
down 89, or head south on State Road 24 to Bicknell and Torrey,
gateway to Capitol Reef National Park. We used to take this route
on our way to Bullfrog Marina at Lake Powell because the family
loved the scenic drive, even though it took a bit longer. Descending
from Fishlake, you encounter the broad sage-covered Awapa
Plateau, through the towns of Loa, Bicknell and Torrey. While
these towns are some of the most isolated in the region, you’ll find
a surprising number of artists, potters and woodworkers displaying
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Torrey is home to several outstanding restaurants, including the
Capitol Reef Inn and Café and Café Diablo.
Head east from Torrey along Highway 24, and the road begins
to wind through the red rock cliffs and monuments of Capitol Reef
National Park. Fortunately, there are scenic pullouts all along the
way, so you can keep your eyes on the road while driving. You
might want to park the RV and take the time for a guided horseback or four-wheel vehicle trip along cowboy trails. Also, don’t
miss the chance to experience ancient Indian heritage at Anasazi
State Park. If the northern end of 89 is a treasure of pioneer heritage, this region is steeped in ancient Native American culture.
Another recommended experience is the pickle and pinto bean
pies at the Sunglow Restaurant in Bicknell.
The Grafton Cemetery lies south of Zion National Park.
Bill Raddatz
Spectacular Highway
As you continue south from Torrey, you’ll encounter Scenic
Byway 12, designated in 2002 as one of only 20 “All American
Roads.” This stretch of road is breathtakingly beautiful, yet
demands that you pay attention to the road as you navigate your
way up, through, down and around red rock cliffs and overlooks.
As you head up over Boulder Mountain, you’ll encounter the
Boulder Mountain Lodge, a decidedly civilized stop in the wildest
of places. Don’t miss the opportunity to dine at the critically
acclaimed Hell’s Backbone Grill, named after one of the area’s most
memorable geologic features. You’ll know why it’s so named as you
pick your way along the lofty road with precipitous canyons on
either side. I had the unforgettable experience of driving along
Hell’s Backbone at midnight in the middle of a spectacular lightning storm. It was an indelible moment, full of adrenalin and awe.
Descending from Boulder Mountain, you’ll drive through
Escalante, named in honor of the Friar Silvestre Valez de Escalante
expedition of 1776, and past attractions such as Kodachrome Basin
State Park before entering the town of Tropic on the border of
Bryce Canyon National Park. The area is a wanderer’s paradise,
from the pine and aspen covered trails of the plateau to the red dirt
pathways that descend into the amphitheaters of Bryce Canyon.
Past Bryce Canyon, Highway 12 ends its loop at Highway 89,
where you can turn south and continue on to Kanab, at the southern tip of the route. Next month, we’ll pick up at Sigurd, where we
diverted to Highway 24, and explore the southern regions of 89,
which include the Headwaters District and Under the Rim District.
It’s a very different, yet equally rewarding trip down Utah’s historical Heritage Highway. ;
Bob Wassom is a Utah based freelance writer with a passion for
outdoor recreation, travel and tourism.
